Williamsburg
story and photos by Thelma Sampson
This is a story about a spring-time visit to Williamsburg. But fall lingers longer in Virginia, so this may be the perfect getaway for eastern Canadians before the snow starts to fly!
 I n March of this year we spent a delightful and interesting week in Virginia. We had spent the winter in Florida and stopped for a week at Williamsburg to visit friends and tour the area. We used a timeshare week, staying at King's Creek Plantation just off highway199 or IS 64, on the outskirts of the city. This is a large complex built in several stages, with 1, 2 and 3 bedroom units that can sometimes be rented as well. The website is www.kingscreekplantation.com
As we were in Williamsburg before the summer season started, the rates were very reasonable. We paid for two days and received a third day free. The weather was clear and cool but not cold and the crowds few, so it was a wonderful time to tour the old historical town.
Colonial Williamsburg is a 300-acre historical area that takes you back to life in the 18th century. Williamsburg was the political and cultural capital of Great Britain's largest colony in the New World from 1869 to 1780. To walk the many original streets is, indeed, a walk back in time. There are 500 buildings to explore, some restored, others reconstructed and even some original 18th century structures. The Visitors Center will be your first stop for tickets, a map and a programme guide called THIS WEEK. This is an extensive document that should be studied before beginning your day.
It outlines everything that goes on during the week, with times of openings, special exhibitions and the various programmes with their start times, duration, and how many times they are repeated during the day. There are walking tours available several times during the day from the Greenhow Lumber House, with a costumed, local expert and this is a good way to start your day. The tours last about 30 minutes and will give you lots of tips on what to see later.
 There are always special events for various months of the year. 2009 celebrates the 30th year of African American programmes (12 of Williamsburg's communities of the 18th century were of African descent) and March was Women's History month so there were several presentations on this topic as well.
The Great Hopes Plantation is an interpretive site on rural plantation life while the Peyton Randolph House presents life of the African Americans in the capital. The new programme at Peyton House - "Two Worlds, One Roof, and One Law" - gives the perspectives of life through the Peyton family's eyes and the eyes of their 25 slaves on the eve of the Revolution.
The women's programmes included women and music and on the stage, as well as in business and trade. We enjoyed hearing the costumed women playing the harpsichord, English guitar, and reciting poetry in the parlour of the old Raleigh Tavern and Wythe House, and the talks among the women about their roles in 18th century society. Particularly interesting were the roles of women in the Revolution and we enjoyed the speaker representing Martha Washington who talked to us on the duties of the President's wife and described her visits to her husband in the winter camps.
All the participants in the various shops, houses and public buildings are in period dress and all will answer questions and give you their views on the events of the times. The artesians and craftspeople are all qualified and practising their trades using authentic tools: silversmiths, founders, wig makers, coopers, spinners, weavers, printers and so on. The local shoemaker offered to make my husband a pair of dancing shoes for that evening if he could come back in a few hours! Apparently dancing shoes do not require nearly as much time to make as work boots that are of a much higher quality!
 It's not possible to see everything in one visit, but here's our list of 'must-see' places. The Governor's Palace was the residence of seven royal governors and is shown today as the home of the last British governor, Lord Dunmore, on the eve of the Revolution. It features stables, outdoor kitchens and a wonderful formal garden as well as the mansion itself. The Raleigh Tavern, 1717, was the centre for social commercial and political gatherings and is the site of many programmes throughout the day, all featured in the guidebook. About 40 minutes should be allowed to tour the Capitol where, in 1776, the vote for independence took place, and allow 20 minutes for the Courthouse that provided local justice in a wide variety of court trials. The Magazine and Guardhouse takes about 30 minutes and features the arsenal with all the firearms and the gunpowder warehouse. All of these sites have excellent commentaries.
Revolutionary City is an inter-active adventure presenting the stories of Williamsburg residents from 1774-1781. It is a two-hour presentation with many actors playing the parts of the residents. The historic streets are a stage for witnessing life in the city, as the people of Williamsburg play their role in the struggle to become a nation. There is a chance to interact with both free and enslaved Virginians as they discuss the events leading up to the American Revolution. And throughout the day the Fife and Drum band marches up and down the streets playing their instruments while carriages, ox carts, buggies and farmers leading livestock along the road all make us feel we are part of these earlier times.
In addition to the above, there are also several good museums to visit: the DeWitt Wallace Decorative Arts Museum (25 galleries) and the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Folk Art Museum (11 galleries) both have wonderful collections of 18th century textiles, furniture, art works, ceramics and folk and decorative art of the times. There are tours throughout the day, given by very knowledgeable costumed guides with much detail shared on the different artifacts. You can however visit at any time and enjoy an independent tour. Entrance to the museums is through the old public Hospital (a mini museum in its own right.) Audio guides (1 hour in length) featuring the museums and other sites are available for US$6.00 from the Visitor Center.
 Williamsburg of the time was known as the cultural centre and the evening programmes are another adventure. You can take a candlelight walk through the streets, shops and workplaces of the locals, enjoy an 18th century musical and theatre production, or even dine by candlelight in a tavern. The ghosts of Williamsburg candlelight tour is also a popular walk. The week we were there, there was a recreation of the trial of Grace Sherwood, the so-called Virginia Witch.
There is an extra charge for the evening productions with the exception of the recitals at the old Bruton Parish Church. These musical presentations are in the original church George Washington attended and the church still serves an active congregation. Only a donation is requested, for these performances.
For dining on site there are four taverns dating back to the mid 70s. Christina Campbell's Tavern specializes in the seafood reputedly much enjoyed by George Washington as well and afternoon tea and savories that are served onTuesdays and Thursdays. Reservations suggested. Chownings Tavern features "sandwiches for the ordinary folk", a novelty at the time as they had only been 'invented' by the Earl of Sandwich in 1762. No reservations required. Shields Tavern offers hearty comfort food and often has visitors from the Revolutionary City Programme.
No reservations required. The Kings Arms offers breakfast with the citizens of the Revolution, Saturdays and Sundays, as well as meals throughout the day. Reservations recommended. In addition, there is the Raleigh Tavern bakery (try their great cinnamon buns!), the Museum café and many other options. Merchant's Square features 40 unique shops and restaurants as well. This is the place to pick up a souvenir of your visit: everything from pewter to local peanuts, clothing, crafts, etc. You will need an hour or two to tour the many shops offering so many different things!
The College of William and Mary was founded by a royal charter from King William and Queen Mary in 1693. It is the second oldest college in the country and the oldest still in continuous academic use. As an establishment of higher learning, it has graduated several presidents and signers of the Declaration of Independence. It is the only institute of higher learning in the U.S. with a Royal Charter and named after British royalty. It is now a public university with an enrollment of over 7500. The campus has lots of green space and is a pleasant place to take a walking tour.
There are six 'official' hotels very close to the attractions with many packages available. The site for these is www.goWilliamsburg.com or call 1 800 500 4834. For other hotel reservations check www.ColonialWilliamsburgResort.com. For tickets and information to the historical sites go to www.colonialwilliamsburg.com while The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation's site is www.history.org or call 1 800 447 8679
The city of Williamsburg, outside the colonial centre, also has many things to see, including many plantations. Shirley Plantation, the oldest, was settled in 1613. The Berkeley plantation was the home of the first official Thanksgiving in 1619 and the Hewick and the Jasmine Plantations are now B&Bs. Many have impressive gardens of the era and most are open for tours. Busch Gardens is a theme park with 40 rides and a variety of shows, and there are also several water parks nearby. Presidents Park & the American Presidential Experience is an outdoor museum featuring 42 18 ft. monuments of the presidents with self-guided and guided theme tours. The Williamsburg Winery has tasting and tours, as does the Williamsburg AleWerks [sic]. For shoppers there are many antique shops and a several outlet malls to browse, and for golfers there's a total of 20 public and private courses.
Williamsburg, Jamestown and Yorktown are linked by the Colonial Parkway, forming America's 'historical triangle'. Historic Jamestown is the site of the first permanent British settlement in North America, settled in 1607 by 104 men and boys in search of resources for commerce. You can walk the site of the original village where some ruins are still visible beside the James River. The Jamestown Settlement is a living history museum with replicas of the ships on which the pioneers sailed, a replica of a Powhatan Indian village and many waterway exhibits on early travel and navigation, as well as the old fort, and village. There are galleries, films, exhibits and guides in the three main areas to enjoy during your visit.
Yorktown Battlefield is the site of the final battle of the American Revolution. Here you can walk in General George Washington's footsteps where his decisive victory took place over the British and the American Revolution won. The Yorktown Victory Center is a museum of the American Revolution where you can follow the road to Revolution from the beginning of colonial unrest to the formation of a new nation. Again there are galleries, films and guides (from the era) to tell stories and answer questions.
We came away from our stay in the region feeling we were much more knowledgeable about American history and felt we had taken a "journey back in time" We would happily return again as there is so much to see that it is difficult to cover it all, even in a week. It would be a great holiday for families with children as so much is interactive and there are many hands-on features to enjoy. Do try to take this trip into history soon!
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