A Winter Saturday in Halifax
story and photos by Ann Wallace
A
wintry story for our May edition, but all that I enjoyed on
this day in Halifax will be awaiting you on your summer visit.
All, that is, except for the chilly weather! Enjoy … it's a great
city.
The weather did not look promising! From my window in Halifax's
Westin Nova Scotian Hotel the harbour looked gloomy and cold.
But after two days spent at a conference in the hotel, attending
meetings and workshops on photography, copyright and 'new technologies'
(not my favourite!) I really wanted to stretch my legs and have
some fresh air on this, our 'free day'. So, I dressed warmly
and off I set to see what this city held on a winter Saturday.
I'd only walked half a block when I knew it held good coffee.
I could smell it! And soon I found the establishment of my dreams:
a coffee shop ("the best in town" I was later told) within a
bookshop. Joy of joys! Soon I was seated in the window of the
Trident Booksellers & Café, a new paperback in hand and a fragrant
espresso on the table before me.
I
could have lingered longer, but the great outdoors beckoned
and so off I set again. Down on Lower Water Street there seemed
to be lots of comings and goings from an entrance signposted
'Brewery Market'. I always enjoy checking out markets (not to
mention breweries!) so I followed the crowds in and, in an instant,
the gray morning was transformed. Here in higgledy-piggledy
courtyards and laneways on a variety of levels was set out nature's
bounty: pyramids of pale leeks, smooth squash, purple beets
and eggplants, baskets of pearl and crimson onions, feather-topped
carrots, rosy-faced apples, smooth brown eggs, live lobsters,
glistening scallops, fat sausages, luscious cheeses, jugs of
fresh cider, bunches of bright daffodils and pots of fragrant
herbs.
Stalls
were lined up in the laneways where friendly artisans were displaying
their crafts: pretty jewellery, ceramics and paintings, knitted
scarves and hats, trendy clothes and more. And then there were
sandwich places and coffee shops and many groups of lively music
makers. Most corners were bustling, but all was quiet near a
lone musician as a melancholic melody uncoiled from his violin
and the market goers sat on the stairs to enjoy his artistry,
with coffees in their hand and shopping bags at their feet.
I was later to learn that this Farmers' Market is frequented
by many local chefs, who come to buy and celebrate Nova Scotia's
bounty in all seasons. It wasn't any warmer when I emerged from
the pleasures of the Market, but the clouds were higher and
the gray day now held some shimmers of silver sunlight. Time
for a brisk walk, and what better destination could there be
than the Citadel, standing proud and sturdy atop Citadel Hill?
The Citadel grounds are open during the winter months, but there
are no services. However, I did know that the noonday gun was
fired every day of the year, so I quickened by steps in the
hope that I could see this tradition being performed.
As
I strode out, the clouds rose higher in the sky, scudding now
against a backdrop of blue and then, as I passed the handsome
Old Town Clock building and reached the Citadel, I was enjoying
a brilliant clear day, with views of Halifax, its famous harbour
and the far shores spread out before me. It's one thing to come
here on a busy summer's day when the Historic Site is full of
visitors, quite another on a bright day in mid-winter. Yet the
soldiers garrisoned here in the 19th century would have endured
all weathers as they stood ready to defend this corner of Canada
with artillery at the ready, personal weapons primed and uniforms
in good order. I stood, back against the wind, and imagined
what life must have been like for them in those days.
Come
to the Citadel in the summer
and you can enjoy the Site's living
history programme, when an historical re-enactment group depict
1869, when the 78th Highland Regiment was stationed here. This
regiment was one of the British Army's most famous Scottish
units, and - in their MacKenzie tartan kilts, feather bonnets
and scarlet doublets - one of the most resplendent. But on this
February day there were just two lone soliders in their greatcoats
braving the windy battlement to fire the noonday gun and keep
an old tradition alive.
The
practice of firing this gun dates from around 1857 when the
military used cannons to signal daybreak, noon and sunset. The
evening cannon would have warned soldiers that the fort gates
were closing for the night and that they should return to their
barracks. Now, at dawn and dusk, the good citizens of Halifax
are left in peace, but they still rely on the reverberating
blast from the noon gun in order to accurately check their timepieces.
For those who'd like to know, I did some research and can report
that the present-day gun is a reproduction twelve-pound, smooth-bore,
muzzle-loading gun used during the reign of King George III
(1760-1820).
My
afternoon, still deliciously free to
do as I pleased, lay ahead
and it was time to make a decision. I'd visited this city before
and knew of the delights to be found at the Maritime Museum,
at Pier 21 and at the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia. But I needed
a bite of lunch and thus it was that the Art Gallery won! Won
because I remembered their trendy, art-filled café. The Cheapside
Café (named for the area between the two gallery buildings,
which in turn took its name from the historic London market
which has been operating since medieval times) is a great spot
with the perfect luncheon menu: soup, stuffed crepes, fishcakes
with caramelized onions, strudel filled with wild mushrooms
and chevre, pasta, artful salads and a selection of sandwiches.
And then there are the desserts, all listed under the heading
'Edible Art'. Need I describe more the 'warm apple cake with
rum soaked raisins, slivered almonds and crème anglaise'?
Thus
fortified I was ready to enjoy the Gallery, especially its collection
of Nova Scotian landscapes and the Maud Lewis gallery. Could
there be a more charming place to spend a winter hour than with
Maud? (I'm sure she wouldn't mind being called just Maud!) Here's
her tiny home, lowly indeed but transformed by Maud into a magical
place where every available surface and item - from the massive
stove to the stair risers, from the breadbox and the tea canister
to the linoleum floor - are painted with flowers, trees, birds
and butterflies. And there on the surrounding walls is a collection
of her paintings, folk art scenes of rural life in every season.
Maud’s life was not an easy one, but her art displays a love
of life and appreciation of nature’s many gifts.
By
the time I step out onto the street the sunshine has almost
disappeared again and there's snow in the air. The streets are
emptying as folk head home to prepare for their Saturday evening.
No doubt many have plans to return to downtown, for Halifax's
restaurant scene is burgeoning and their pubs with live music
are legendary. My luxurious room at the Westin beckons as I,
too, must prepare for my evening with colleagues and our gala
conference dinner ('lobsters' is the rumour!).
But
before I leave this seaport town 
I want to walk along the harbour
and get as close to ocean waters as possible. It's deserted
and ghostly with swirling snow that is settling over everything.
Sounds are muffled now, apart from the shriek of seagulls and
the slap of water along the wharfs. Behind the Maritime Museum
the historic hydrographic c.s.s. Acadia, one of the Museum's
research ships, lies in its slip, warm lights gleaming through
its portholes. Darkness is falling and I quicken my step. But
then I hear another sound … it's the plaintive mewing of a cat.
I follow the sound up some steps and there before the soaring
glass doors of a modern building stands a sleek tabby. I approach,
bewildered, for without lights showing in the windows this building
is obviously an office and the doors are locked. I lift the
little cat into my arms in order to better examine the large
round tag hanging from his collar. It read, "I belong on the
c.s.s. Acadia, moored behind the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic.
I know my way home, so please put me down."
Some
details to help you plan your Halifax visit:
The
Westin Nova Scotian Hotel stands right beside the rail
station and almost directly behind Pier 21 National Historic
Site. Tel: 902 421 1000, www.westin.com/novascotian.
On
my first visit to Halifax a few years ago I stayed at the historic
boutique hotel The Halliburton, also within
walking distance of the station. I peeked in on this visit and
it looked as welcoming as I remember. Tel: 1 888 512 3344, www.thehalliburton.com
Just
around the corner is another historic B&B, the Waverley Inn,
where I was given a warm wel come and shown a ground floor room
with its great carved bed, soaring armoire and other Victoria
touches. Lovers of ye olde worlde touch will be happy in this
fine inn. Tel: 902 423 9346, www.waverleyinn.com
These
three properties are within walking distance of a variety of
restaurants (seafood, Thai, Japanese and many others) and a
selection of boutiques and small galleries. The Trident
Café, mentioned above, is nearby, and so is another
great find: the tiny Shiraz Persian Restaurant,
locally known as 'the purple box'. Any local will point the
way and then you'll discover some unusual and tasty dishes with
mysterious names at real bargain prices. Eat in (there's seating
for 12) or take out. I had a fragrant lunch here on the day
I arrived in Halifax for under $10.
www.halifaxfarmersmarket.com
- every Saturday from 7 a.m - 3 p.m.
Halifax
Citadel National History Site: tel: 902 426 5080, www.parkscanada.gc.ca
Maritime
Museum of the Atlantic: tel: 902 424 7490, www.maritime.museum.gov.ns.ca
Pier
21 National Historic Site: tel: 902 425 7770, www.pier21.ca
The
Art Gallery of Nova Scotia: tel: 902 424 7542, www.artgalleryofnovascotia.ca
For
your Greater Halifax Visitor Guide 2008
call 1 877 422 9334 or visit www.destinationhalifax.com
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