Cruising Japan's Inland Sea
and more
story and photos by Ted and Judy van der Veen

Hidden Treasures of Japan - the trip name catches our eye. Reading on, it promises "an in-depth journey to discover the cultural legacy of Japan and South Korea" with "manicured gardens, serene temples and modern innovations", all from aboard "the comfortably elegant M/V Spirit of Oceanus". We are tempted: Japan and Korea, two countries we have never visited and where we might hesitate to travel alone. But a cruise? Cruise ships are not our style. However, at 120 passengers, the Spirit of Oceanus is not in the same league as the monster liners, and while much bigger than any ship we have ever been on, it just might be "doable". An optional pre-cruise tour visits the heritage city of Kyoto. And the timing is right, two weeks in late September - early October. Add a generous early booking discount and we're hooked! Here then is the story of our 2008 tour to western Japan and South Korea.

With our Aeroplan points, we fly to Tokyo's Narita Airport, deciding to go a few days early to spend a few extra days in Kyoto and get over jet lag, and to return home a few days later to allow time to visit the Tokyo region as well. Arriving late afternoon, we have opted for a hotel near the airport. The Narita Hilton, a ten-minute free shuttle bus ride away, provides a comfortable room, an exquisite lobby overlooking a peaceful Japanese garden with falling water and a buffet breakfast.


Japan's Bullet Trains (Shinkansen) are world-renowned, and we are eager to experience a ride on one. We have been advised that it is best to buy tickets on the day of travel, that there is at least one train an hour, that seats are pre-assigned and can be charged to a credit card. As the Shinkansen leaves from Tokyo Station, one must take the Narita Express (like London's Heathrow Express) into Tokyo. Allow yourself about an hour between trains in Tokyo for the connection (we have allowed 25 minutes, but are really afraid we'll miss our train.) Tokyo station is very congested, and while there is some English signage, it is a fair walk to the Shinkansen lines. The Narita Express takes an hour, and the Tokyo-Kyoto Shinkansen 2½ hrs. (A distance roughly equivalent to Ottawa-Toronto.) Trains run to the minute as scheduled, so be sure to check on the platform that you are standing at the spot where your assigned car will stop. Stations on both trains are announced and the LED display runs in English as well as Japanese, so you really cannot miss your stop.

We arrive in Kyoto early-afternoon and then it's only a ten-minute taxi ride to our hotel. (The Osaka airport, which serves Kyoto and Kobe, is an hour or more drive away. Most domestic flights within Japan leave from the City Airport of Tokyo, an hour from Narita, so the train really does make sense, even if you have the option of flying - and with the added bonus of the bullet train experience.) We stayed at the Kyoto Hotel Okura, where we are to meet the rest of the group in two days' time. It was very expensive, but also very luxurious and at least breakfast was included! The capital of Japan for over a thousand years, Kyoto is the centre of Japan's cultural and artistic heritage.

It is also the only major city not damaged by the bombings of WWII. The historic centre ("The Heart of Japan") is very walkable. The river and several canals, with bike and walking paths, run through the heart of the city. There are parks as well as narrow pedestrian-only streets. We spend our three free days walking and looking, stopping at riverside cafés, absorbing the sights and sounds, and yes, being looked at as well. Westerners alone are quite an unusual sight, and more than once we realize that someone is taking our picture as we wander. Our first day, Friday, is overcast with drizzle, so we opt for a stroll through one of the large covered arcades with shops of every description. We particularly enjoy the Nishiki-Koji Dori, the city's principal fish-and-produce market for over 400 years.

On a bright sunny Saturday we visit Heian Shrine, built in 1895 to commemorate the 1,100th anniversary of the city's founding. With its brilliant vermilion colour and the equally brilliant torii (stone) gate on the road leading to it, it is one of Japan's best-known shrines. On weekends, families present their newborn children at the temple; both children and their mothers, sometimes fathers as well, wear traditional dress for this occasion. A couple of blocks away, in the basement of the International Exhibition Hall, Miyako Messe, is the excellent (and free) Kyoto Museum of Traditional Crafts with fascinating displays of traditional crafts, videos showing their craftsmanship, and clear explanations in English. Their small shop sells quality crafts.

Sunday we wander through the narrow streets of Pontocho and Gion, the traditional home of Kyoto's famed geishas, and today a warren of restaurants, cafés, bars, as well as traditional theatre and tea ceremonies. (We realize the area would have been much livelier in the evening and night-time hours, but we find it interesting nonetheless.) Yasaka Shrine, dedicated to the gods of health and prosperity, is located in the large Maruyama Park, a favourite spot for families on weekends. Here we see the first of several wedding parties, the ladies in kimono, the bride's dress white and very elaborate, the men in a mix of traditional Japanese and formal European.

The pre-cruise tour officially starts on Monday morning under light rain - are we glad we have already had two days of nice weather! Kinkaku-ji Temple, the Golden Pavilion, is said to be blinding in bright sunlight. No sunglasses necessary for us however, as the skies are overcast, but still we admire the gold leaf that completely covers the temple and imagine how beautiful its reflection in the pond must be on a sunny day. First built in the 1390s as the retirement home of one of the shoguns, the present building is a mid-20th century reproduction after the original was destroyed by arson in 1950. A few minutes away, the renowned Zen rock garden of Ryoan-ji Temple comprises fifteen rocks surrounded by a sea of raked white pebbles, laid out in the 15th century; there are pond gardens at the temple as well, very serene and quiet, with lovely views. After lunch we visit the Zen temple of Tenryu-ji, an 1860’s re-creation of the 1339 temple. We walk through a bamboo forest adjacent to the gardens.

Tuesday, Day Two of the pre-tour, takes us first to Nijo Castle, built in 1603 as the Kyoto residence of the shogun, not a fortress, and thus constructed mainly of native cypress wood with delicate carvings, paper-screened walls and wall paintings. An interesting feature is the nightingale floor which creaks when walked upon to alert the guards of an intruder. The castle also has an extensive garden. Then back to Heian Shrine which we saw on our own under sunshine; this time we also tour Shinen Garden, but too early for the fall colours, too late for the weeping cherry trees of spring and the irises and water lilies of summer. At lunch time, it starts to rain quite heavily, and so we are offered the choice of visiting the 8th century Kiyomizu hillside temple as per the itinerary or to substitute Sanjusangendo Hall, our choice. Sanjusangendo Hall is stunning: 1,000 life-sized statues carved from native cypress in the 12th and 13th centuries, each with 40 arms, in ten rows of 100, surround a 3-metre tall Kannon carved in 1254. At 15 m in depth and 120 m in length, this is the longest wooden building in Japan, and archery competitions are a tradition in the corridor behind the statues.

This evening we have a very special dinner with a geisha and a meiko (geisha in training) in attendance. They perform several songs for us, then circulate amongst us so that we can talk to them about the role of the geisha in Japanese society, the long period of study and training in the arts, and also in dress and makeup. In answer to my question as to when she began her studies, Meiko-san reveals that the next day is her 16th birthday; of course we sing Happy Birthday, which seems to delight her. Later in our trip we come across a new book (in English) about the life of a geisha, and are pleasantly surprised to recognize Komomo, the geisha we had met. This is really quite a special occurrence, as one must be invited to the clubs where the geisha entertain; it is impossible for anyone to simply walk in or call up and make a reservation.

Wednesday, Day Three, we first drive the 40 km to Nara, now a small town, but Japan's first permanent capital in the 8th century. Although the capital was moved after only 74 years, Nara is very important to Japanese culture. It was during this period that the Chinese influence was important in Japanese arts, crafts, architecture, literature, politics. Buddhism flourished, co-existing to this day with the native Shintoism. It is here that we learn the mantra "Buddhist temple, Shintu shrine". Nara Park is home to more than 1,000 deer who love to be fed the 'deer cookies' that are sold on site; the park also contains several historic structures. Todai-ji Temple is not only the world's largest wooden building, but also the home of the Daibutsu, Japan's largest bronze Buddha, 15 m tall; both were commissioned in the 8th century, but the current building dates from 1709.

Kasuga Grand Shrine has been located here since 768, but until the 19th century, it was torn down and rebuilt in its original form every twenty years. The pathways approaching the shrine are lined with more than 3,000 stone and bronze lanterns - it must be stunning when they are lit every February and August. As at many important shrines and temples, one can purchase one's fortune (in English also) for a small sum; if you are not happy with your fortune, simply tie the white paper to the twig of a tree to negate it. (The tree is covered with white strips of paper!) Or buy a small square of thin wood to write a message to the gods, to be left on racks - from the ones we can read, most are invocations for world peace or personal well-being. On the other side of town is the 7th century Horyu-ji Temple, regarded as the cradle of Japanese Buddhism. The pre-cruise tour officially ends this evening, when we are transferred to our hotel in Kobe overlooking the harbour where the Spirit of Oceanus awaits us. We are to spend one night in the Hotel Okura Kobe because the departing passengers do not disembark until the next day.

And so most of the following day is actually a land day, spent visiting Hime-ji Castle, about 50 km west of Kobe. Nicknamed "White Heron Castle", this five-storey white castle perches atop a rocky outcropping overlooking the plain. Begun in the 14th century, the castle has an amazing defence system, three moats, massive stone walls, hidden entrance reached only by successfully following a maze of passageways. The place is overwhelming, but beautiful.

We return to Kobe via a different route, arriving at the ship about 4 p.m. Check-in is smooth, our luggage already in our cabins. (And our cruise holiday has begun with a change in the weather; from here on, we have sunny, warm days. This part of Japan is at the same latitude as South Carolina, so imagine early October there.) We congregate in the lounge for refreshments, the captain officially welcomes us and introduces his staff, we go through the mandatory safety meeting, then we are off. We are just over 100 passengers, and as almost 60 of us have enjoyed the pre-cruise tour, there are but a few new faces. The routine is quickly established, cruising in the evening and overnight, touring in the morning, sometimes also in the afternoon, three buses for the tours, often local entertainment as we arrive or just prior to leaving a port, wrap-up of the day's activities and preview of the morrow at happy hour, sometimes an optional programme in the evening.

Friday, Cruise Day Two sees us in the port of Takamatsu on the island of Shikoku, smallest of the four main islands of Japan and linked by bridge to the other islands only since 1988. This is the only time that we share the port with another cruise vessel; for the duration of the trip we are the only passenger vessel in port, which explains perhaps the warm welcome that we always receive. Our first visit is to Ritsurin Park, once the summer retreat of the local nobility, and today Japan's largest garden park at 185 acres. Here we see the principle of "borrowed landscaping"; the backdrop of the nearby mountain is integral to the design of the gardens (which took 100 years to build in the 17th century). Every turn in the path reveals a new vista over the six ponds to the mountain. Gardeners are busy keeping the 1,400 twisted pine trees in their desired state; it can take two men several days to work on one tree. No wonder that Takamatsu is home to many bonsai nurseries! Later, we walk through Shikoku Mura Village, an open-air museum with more than 30 traditional houses and outbuildings, farm and fishing cottages, a rustic teahouse and sheds for producing paper from mulberry bark. One may enter the village over water by a suspended bridge of vines (a local tradition, but this one covers modern steel cables).

Saturday, Day Three, we find ourselves docked at Uwajima on the western side of Shikoku. Awaiting us on the quay is a group of drummers and dancers in traditional dress performing the Bull Dragon dance. We are invited to circulate among them, to participate in the drumming and to dance along. To our surprise, this is a group of seniors (all over 72, average age 78) who meet regularly to keep in shape and to promote local traditions. Uwajima is a fishing and agricultural village. Each bus, in turn, visits three locations: the lovely Tensha-en Gardens, Doi Pearl Gallery and the Dairaku-ji Temple, home to flying squirrels and an abbot with the most eclectic taste.

At the Pearl Gallery we learn about the culturing of pearls (a process developed locally in 1893), watch as base material is inserted in the oyster, see the harvested oyster opened to reveal the pearl, learn about the cleaning and sorting process and, of course, are offered the opportunity to buy! At the Temple we climb many steps to find a young abbot in priestly garb awaiting us, with a most modern camera suspended round his neck! He is the fourth generation abbot at this temple. We learn that his father was an inventor of many gadgets, some useful, some just for fun and a collector of all sorts of things, particularly cameras through the ages, and a man with a mission, to put his small temple on the map. We watch videos from local and international television stations about the temple and the flying squirrels (nocturnal) who live in the trees. We see the gilded altar of the small temple, admire the tiny perfect garden that invites contemplation, share a cup of green tea and a local pastry with this warm, welcoming man, and gaze in awe at the collections on display.

Sunday, Day Four, we spend in a rainforest where there can be up to 400 inches of rain annually. Most of the small island of Yakushima, one of Japan's most southern points, makes up Yakasugi National Forest. We can choose a bus ride around the island with a stop at the museum or a walk, either 30 or 60 minutes, high in the mountains. We go off in different directions, and I thoroughly enjoy the walk even though I am soaked before I have gone more than three metres from the bus. The rain slowly lets up as we walk along a well-tended forest path with slip-retardant material on the wooden ramps. By the time we start down the mountain, the sun is breaking through, and we are lucky enough to see a few of the thousands of monkeys who live in the forest. Those who chose the bus tour and the museum learnt about the hydrogen fuel cell vehicle research that has taken place here and the spawning grounds for thousands of loggerhead turtles, the largest spawning site in the North Pacific. After lunch, we visit the Environmental and Cultural Village Centre to look at the exhibits and watch a feature film, The Symphony of Water and Forest of Yakushima Island.

Monday is Day Five and we dock at Kagoshima on Kyushu Island at the head of a large, sheltered bay. We drive into the countryside where we tour a green tea farm and learn about the production of this major staple of the Japanese diet. Continuing on to the town of Chiran, we visit the Peace Museum for Kamikaze Pilots. The director gives an address, explaining the role of the Kamikaze in World War II, but also sharing with us some details about the lives of these young men who knew they were doomed to die, reading from their journals and letters home expressing their fears as well as their pride in service to their country. He makes it a very personal and poignant experience, and many of us are moved to tears. The goal of this museum is to preserve artefacts and information, but also to honour the more than 1,000 young men who went knowingly to their deaths. In the afternoon, after lunch at an exquisite resort in Ibusuki, some of us enjoy a unique experience and a very traditional Japanese custom.

The unique part is a sand bath; we dress in thin cotton kimonos (yakutas), lie down in a depression in a bed of geothermally heated sand while the staff cover us to the neck with about four inches of hot black sand at about 140° F., believed to have therapeutic powers. The recommended time in the 'bath' is no more than twenty minutes. When we have had enough, we retire to separate areas for men and women to shower, then immerse ourselves in the onsen, the hot springs bath. There are several areas of the baths, both indoor and out, with varying temperatures. Some people chose not to participate for medical reasons, but for many, it was the unwillingness to appear stark naked in front of others. Such a shame; there is nothing exhibitionist about it, the waters are so relaxing, and this is such a part of Japanese life that nobody thinks twice about nudity and nobody stares. Those who do not participate, tour the Satsuma Folklore Museum which showcases Satsuma Pottery with its soft crackled glaze, a technique begun in the 16th century.

Tuesday, Day Six, is the day for Nagasaki. As we enter the harbour, the fire department's harbour boat escorts us in with their fire cannons at full tilt, an impressive display. Nagasaki was, of course, the second city devastated by the atomic bomb at the end of World War II. Historically, Nagasaki was the first Japanese city to open its doors to international trade in the 16th century, first with the Portuguese and the Dutch, then the Chinese. During the two centuries of isolationism that followed, Nagasaki was the only port allowed contact with the rest of the world. It was also here that Japan re-opened its doors to the world in the 1850s and thus it is a very cosmopolitan city. Our first stop is the Peace Park where statues given by countries around the world (sadly Canada is not one of them) line the path to the Peace Monument, a male deity with one hand pointing to the sky, the other to the horizon. The Nagasaki National Peace Memorial Hall for the Atomic Bomb Victims has a three-fold mandate: to remember those who died and offer a prayer for their everlasting peace, to preserve pictures and memoirs of the bombing and its victims, and to make available information on international cooperation, particularly in the field of medical treatment for the effects of nuclear incidents. The Atomic Bomb Museum has displays not only of the city before and after the bombing, but also the history of nuclear weapons to the present, indicating all countries in possession of nuclear weapons and their total destructive power, and the concerted movement toward a nuclear-free world. It is a very objective look at the effect of the bomb, informative, well-presented and quite free of political bias.

This has been an intense experience, so it is quite restorative to wander through the area of Glover Gardens, the hillside enclave of houses built by European traders in the 18th century. There is also a local festival today, we catch glimpses of a parade and wander the fairground setting of street vendors and food stalls. Back on board, just before our departure, a special treat: a group of more than twenty 4- and 5-year-olds from a local nursery school arrive to entertain us, the little girls in kimono, the boys in samurai dress. They perform a couple of folk dances, some traditional children's songs, then a rousing rendition of "Head, shoulders, knees and toes". Back on the quay, they play happily while the high school band plays tunes from the Big Band Era until we lift anchor and they all wave good-bye.

Wednesday is Day Seven. After an overnight crossing of the Sea of Japan, we dock at Ulsan/Pusan, South Korea's largest port. Customs formalities are looked after en masse, then we depart by coach for an hour's drive to Kjongju, the ancient capital (1st - 10th centuries) ranked by UNESCO as one of the top ten historically important cities in the world. En route, our guide, a very energetic and entrepreneurial young man, tells us a bit about Korea's history and life in Korea in the 21st century. He points out that we will find Korean school children very different. And how right he is! While Japanese youngsters will smile shyly or respond politely when addressed, and may attempt some English, the Korean children are exuberant in everything; one hears the school groups before they come into view, and on sighting foreigners, the children run up with friendly "Hellos" and "Where are you from?", exchanging "High 5s" and engaging in conversation until their vocabulary simply dries up.

We tour the extensive Bulguksa Temple, constructed in the 8th century, with its many impressive stairways, pagodas, halls. What is most striking in contrast to Buddhist temples in Japan is the elaborate use of colour; painted designs are less stylized, even the flowers are bursting with life. Oreung Tumuli Park comprises about twenty grassy knolls which are believed to contain royal tombs; most are untouched, but one of the excavated ones can be visited. After lunch (Korean chopsticks are metal!), we walk through a local market where we see many different fruits and vegetables, fish and meats, spices, and small household goods - a snapshot of daily life. We return to the ship via a different route through small towns where we notice flowers growing everywhere, even along the roadside, a change from Japan where all the gardens are very formal. By 5 p.m. our visit to Korea is over; we head back across the sea to Japan. A few of the crew have changed, including the doctor, and we suspect this is the main reason for adding a day in Korea to a Japanese cruise. But we have also seen that Korea is different, and who knows, some day we may spend longer there.

Thursday, Day Eight, we wake up back in Japan at the port of Hagi, a small and relatively remote town with few visitors and no skyscrapers or neon signs. While emigration officials are very efficient, we must present our passports individually and have a thumb print and photo of our eyes taken again. There are three stops in Hagi. First we visit the home and studio of Mr Nosoka, a "living national treasure" and one of Japan's best-known potters. In addition to watching a demonstration of pottery making and viewing the kilns, we are privileged to have Nosoka-san himself spend time with us and, of course, the inveterate shoppers are not disappointed. Then it's on to Kikuya House, residence of the 18th century Samurai foot soldiers, with rooms all aligned and very sparsely furnished. Last stop of the tour is the Toko-ji Temple, built in 1691, with over 500 stone lanterns. It is the final resting place of the odd-numbered Mori feudal lords; the even-numbered lords are buried at another temple in town.

Friday, Day Nine, we are back in the Inland Sea. The ship anchors off the tiny island of Miyajima, only 31 sq. km, but one of the most important sites for spiritual Japan. Zodiacs take us to the landing where we walk through the village to Itsukushima Shrine, begun in the 6th century on a site held sacred since ancient times. The largest shrine gate (torii) lies just offshore; at high tide, it appears to be floating, and the image of the brilliant red gate reflected in the water is the essence of Shintoism. The temple itself is built on stilts over the water. The Bugaku festival takes place ten times a year; an ancient dance, the dancer in an elaborate orange costume, is performed to court music played on traditional instruments. A special performance has been arranged for us. Other visitors crowd around to watch, but we are the only ones allowed near the stage. There are some murmurings from some people about the fairness of this, but let's assume that it is a situation of "money talks".

The city of Hiroshima is visible from the island, and within minutes of re-boarding we are docked there. Hiroshima is a very modern city … after all, it was totally destroyed in 1945. The Peace Memorial Park lies in the centre of the city overlooking the A-Bomb Dome, the ruined skeleton that marks the centre of the destruction. The very moving Children's Peace Monument is here, surrounded by thousands of colourful paper cranes made and brought by schoolchildren. In 1999 the city's mayor had the Cenotaph for Korean Victims moved here; 20,000 Koreans, mostly forced labourers, were also killed that fateful day. The Memorial Cenotaph contains a stone chest holding the names of all those killed by the bomb; the inscription translates as "Let all the souls here rest in peace, for we shall not repeat the evil."

At the end of the park lies the Peace Memorial Museum. One building stresses Hiroshima's militaristic past, its choice as the bomb site, actual films of the bombing, and its current dedication to the abolition of nuclear weapons. English-language descriptions are excellent, and two English films are shown non-stop in the video theatre. The other building concentrates on the dreadful aftermath of the bomb and the effects of radiation, with artefacts recovered from the site and photographs of victims. As with Nagasaki it's a depressing place to visit, but an essential part of any tour of Japan. And we are very impressed by how everything is presented: no attempt to cast blame, no claim to be innocent victims, no war-mongering - indeed, it is clearly stated that Japan also played a large part in the mistreatment of other human beings during the war. The overall message is "Look at what has happened. Learn from history. Make sure it never happens again."

When we arrive back on board ship to it's to a lighter note. A group of local ladies display several gorgeous kimonos, explain different styles, show us how they are put on, the padding and underclothing, the elaborate obi sashes. They then choose models from our group (carefully looking for tall, slim people, two women and one man) to dress in the traditional formal garb. After dinner, a guest lecturer speaks to us about the national drink, sake, how it is brewed, the different styles, the ways of serving it, followed by samples of many different sakes. (We still don't like it!)

Saturday, Day Ten, is our final day of touring. Those who are up early watch as we go under Seto Ohashi Bridge, an engineering marvel 9.5 km long that carries both train and vehicular traffic between Honshu and Shikoku islands. We dock at the port of Uno where our buses await us for a full day of activities. Our first stop in Okayama is Korakuen Garden, dating from 1700 and considered one of Japan's top three scenic gardens. Its 28 acres include grassy open areas (a rarity) and incorporate the surrounding hills. We are told laws limit the size of neighbourhood buildings to protect the views. From across a pond we get a glimpse of the black "Crow Castle", contrasting with the "White Crane Castle" nearby which we had visited on Day One. After lunch we continue on to the picturesque town of Kurashiki.

Warehouses for rice, cotton and sake from the Shogunate period have been converted into cafés, boutiques and museums along the willow-lined canals. Here we see several wedding parties as this is a popular spot for weddings with the bride and groom photographed in horse-drawn carriages or on canal barges. We tour the Ohara Museum, a collection of western art (El Greco, Gauguin, Monet, Picasso and others) and Ohashi House with tatami mats and sliding paper doors, representative of the bourgeoning merchant class in the late 18th century. The town is a delightful place to wander and fortunately there are no crowds. We return to the ship for the Captain's Farewell, our final dinner, and instructions for the morning. When we awake on Sunday, we are approaching dockside in Kobe where a jazz band welcomes us back to base. Then, for us, its off to Kobe Station for the bullet train back to Tokyo.

And so we have ended our Treasures of Japan cruise and pre-tour. Now for some general comments. This tour really does pick the highlights … we visited eight or more UNESCO World Heritage Sites. There is a good variety of temples, shrines, gardens, museums, and local businesses - nobody can possibly say that it was just one temple after another or that one day was just like the last. The pre-tour in Kyoto is a gem; without it the entire holiday would be diminished. During the pre-tour, we have more contact with Japanese citizens and all our meals are at superb Japanese restaurants with beautifully presented dishes - every one rates a photo! There is always more than enough to eat, one of the guides explains what the dishes are, and while a few people object to raw fish or seaweed, there is so much offered that they can easily avoid those dishes. The two young Americans who "chaperone" us are clearly in love with Japan and the Japanese lifestyle, while our Japan Tourist Board (JTB) guides are very enthusiastic and committed. This is true of all JTB guides throughout the tour; three of them accompany us on the ship, except for Korea, and they rotate from bus to bus daily so we can enjoy them all. While the on-board expedition staff are very proficient, I think we all sense that, while they are enjoying Japan, it is not their passion. The captain and crew are top notch and the bartender, maitre d' and waiters radiate enthusiasm.

With a capacity of 120 passengers, there is one open sitting formeals. Most of us enjoy buffet breakfast on the top deck each day, making perhaps only one foray to the dining room for a special order of eggs Benedict! An informal lunch is available on the top deck as well (burgers, salads, ice cream), with full-service menu available in the dining room. Dinner is served in the dining room only, with two or three choices of appetizer, soup, salad, main course and dessert. Lunch and dinner menus change daily, and are posted near the purser's office the evening before. The only lunches we have on shore (all delicious Japanese meals) are on days when all the touring is far from the ship. Some of us (particularly the Canadians) indicated we would have preferred to have more meals ashore; not only are they part of the Japanese experience, but also the morning touring could often be more leisurely if we did not have to be back on board by 1:00 for lunch.

Most days there is free time in the afternoon, but often the ship is too far from the town to do anything more than go for a walk around the harbour. There is also a small pool-hot tub on the ship for relaxing. Many of the temples and shrines do not allow photography inside. Unless one is totally confined to a wheelchair, accessibility is not an issue; there is an elevator on board, and while several sites have many steps, only one site does not have a ramp as well, and the staff will help with wheel chairs and walkers. Do we recommend this tour? Would we go again? Definitely!

For information and reservations:
We booked with Quest Nature Tours in Toronto, a President's Tour for 20 or so. Tel 1 800 387 1483 or 416 633 5666, www.worldwidequest.com The tour operator - Cruise West - is based in Seattle. They are experts in small-ship cruising along the west coast, and now also the Pacific Rim. These are fairly expensive tours (from US$6,349 in 2009, extension US$1600), but top quality.
However, they do offer an early-booking discount, an even more generous one for early payment in full. They are all-inclusive and tipping is not expected. This particular cruise operates spring and fall. The Spirit of Oceanus is their flagship. 1 888 851 4132 or www.cruisewest.com