Off to New York, New York!
On a snowy December morning, we three women set off from Toronto
for New York City. After all, we had walked the Camino together
(see TTS December 2006), we must be ready for Broadway. We went
by train, a 14-hour journey on Via/Amtrak
during which we 'dined' on our own sandwiches and snacks accompanied
by the occasional cup of tea from the café. At times the train
was too hot, at times too cold, the restrooms were in dubious
condition, but we liked the relaxing pace, the passing scenes
and the price - C$220 each, return in coach class.
As
for where we'd sleep, someone suggested www.woogo.com.
We investigated and a couple of months before departure booked
a one-bedroom apartment on West 73rd Street in an apartment
hotel called The
Tempo, close to Central Park, the Lincoln Center
and just off Broadway. Each of us would pay about US$660 for
our five pre-Christmas nights, including a discount of 2˝% if
we paid (on check-in) in cash or travellers cheques and not
by credit card. A credit card just held the reservation.
When
checking prices for January/February later, I found the rates
had dropped considerably. Arriving late evening, we were pleased
to find a large, bright living room with table and chairs for
six, sofa bed, television and phone, tiny kitchen area with
microwave, sink and fridge, bedroom with queen bed, and bathroom.
Since each of us wanted her own bed, one travelled with a deluxe
inflatable camping mattress and the hotel co-operated when we
asked for an extra blanket and duvet. Fresh towels arrived each
day, but bedmaking and dishwashing were our tasks. The economical
Tempo is not for the pampered.
We
got an overview of the city the first morning by taking a sightseeing
bus. Walking down to 59th Street we saw various tour buses and
opted for Grayline,
later wishing we'd shopped around. The open top of a tour bus
in December is too frigid, but our windows at street level were
oddly screened and visibility was poor.
Memo: look for those buses we saw later with closed-in
top decks.
We'd
read about Big Apple Greeters, volunteers who show
you their city, and after some e-mail notes we were booked.
(www.bigapplegreeter.org,
two weeks' notice needed) Barbara Schoenberg, a retired para-legal,
met us in the Tempo's modest lobby and escorted us by subway
to Greenwich Village and Soho. For about three hours
we walked through these neighborhoods with our friendly, knowledgeable
guide, exploring small galleries, unusual shops, historic sites
and places we'd never have discovered on our own.
In
the four days that followed we managed to pack in visits to
the Metropolitan
Museum of Art (free docent-led tours from under
the big clock near the coat check); the
Guggenheim with its wonderful curving ramps and
a good small café for coffee break; the Frick
Gallery, its calm elegance a welcome respite in
the crowded city; the famed MOMA
(Museum of Modern Art) with good cafeteria-style dining and
great Christmas gifts in its shop. We had a free tour of the
Lincoln Center,
reserved by phone 212 875 5350 and attended Carnegie Hall's
Christmas Concert, reserved on line at least a month earlier
via www.carnegiehall.org.
We shopped at Macy's and at Union Square's open-air craft boutiques
and saw Grand Central Station's colourful Christmas sound-and-light
display. Yes, the Christmas season in New York City is a feast
for the eyes.
As
for dining, we were never far from food. We especially liked
the Asian Society's Garden Court Cafe at 725 Park Avenue,
a few blocks from the Frick, and Luzia's Portuguese
food at 429 Amsterdam Avenue, not far from our hotel, while
Macy's basement Grill served us well after a tiring
day. And for a famous a view over the city, visit the Rainbow
Grill on the 65th floor of the Rockefeller Plaza: www.rainbowroom.com
Tips:
The
Explorer Pass or the City Pass can lower the price of entry
to attractions and even offer a discount at Macy's. See www.explorerpass.com/newyorkcity
and www.citypass.com.
Check
recent guidebooks for valuable information, e.g. some museums
and galleries close Monday, others Tuesday. Read the New York
Times the Friday before you leave for the latest entertainment
news. Check out Metropasses if you plan to use the buses and
subway.
Taxis
are easy to find and not unreasonable in cost. To maximize our
time, we taxied often. Google: Seth
Kugel + New York City - he's a writer who has many
articles about NYC on the web. Stay tuned, we going to Chicago
next!
Barbara Bagnell
Toronto, ON
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