A Room with an
Amazing View in Maui
The various Hawaiian Islands are destinations that have been dealt with comprehensively in past editions of this magazine, so naturally we hauled out those previous articles for help with accommodation when, to our surprise, we were able to book, through Aeroplan, February flights with only three weeks lead time. Unfortunately, we quickly discovered that the two recommended B&Bs on Maui, our first island, were no longer operating. Since the purpose of our trip was to explore the various landscapes and the volcanoes, rather than lie on the beach, we planned to move around and were looking for accommodation in different parts of the island. Some serious web searching turned up a variety of possibilities and, reconciling availability with location, we ended up spending our six nights on Maui in four different places. All were fine, one was outstanding.
Maui is a quintessential tropical paradise now suffering some of the downsides of its favoured status - over development, a serious water shortage, drug issues and an accompanying problem with petty crime, especially car break-ins. When you absolutely have to travel with all your possessions in the trunk of your rental car, as is the case when you change rooms as often as we did, it is disconcerting to be constantly told not to leave anything in your car. Signs to this effect are all over the place and their message was reinforced by comments from our various hosts.
Still, with the car always carefully parked and with a wary eye over our shoulders, we had no problems. On the other hand every time we moved, our accommodation got better, culminating with the Upcountry B&B where we spent our final two nights and which we highly recommend.
All the Hawaiian Islands are the exposed peaks of massive underwater volcanoes that are gradually drifting northwest as the Pacific Plate carries them away from the hot spot responsible for their formation. Younger volcanoes then break the surface over the hot spot. Maui, northwest of Hawaii and older than its volcanically very active neighbour, is made up of two volcanoes: the eroded hills of West Maui are an ancient extinct volcano; the massive 10,000 foot shield volcano, Haleakala, comprises the main part of the island. Haleakala last erupted in 1790 and, while currently dormant, it is definitely still breathing. The broad valley between the two volcanoes is the result of infilling by eroded materials over long periods of time.
If you drive inland from the coast anywhere on Maui other than in this valley, you will be going uphill - just watch out for the cyclists and sometimes skateboarders with a death wish who are careening down towards sea level. The higher you go the cooler it gets: for every 1,000 foot rise the temperature drops an average of 3.5° F. The broad sweep of land around the flanks of Haleakala is known locally as "Upcountry" and this attractive farming and ranching area has distinct vertical crop patterns. For example, strawberries, a cool climate crop, are grown starting at the 4,000 foot level where on average it is 14° F cooler than at the coast. If you are heading for sunrise on the summit of Haleakala, it is worth remembering that it can be about 35° F colder than at your beach resort if the air is still; factor in wind chill and you are in for serious below freezing conditions.
Perched on the side of Haleakala in the little community of Kula at the 3,000 foot level where the temperature is always pleasant and with easy access to the summit, is the Upcountry B&B - "The Big Red House in Kula". All four enormous B&B rooms face west taking in the best view on the island - the valley, coastlines, all of West Maui, various off-shore islands and the sunset. The property is owned and managed by Michael Sullivan aided by his sidekick Gabby, a large yellow Labrador retriever. Michael, an architect, designed and built the house and also made the superb blue tiles that are used throughout. The rooms lack for nothing - mini fridge, wet bar, coffee maker, fireplace, TV with DVD player, king sized bed, notebook detailing all nearby restaurants, big lanai (deck) and a bathroom larger than some rooms we have stayed in.
As well guests can borrow DVDs from Michael's impressive collection and have use of the outdoor hot tub and hammock. Breakfasts are large and interesting, with lots of local fruit. And while you eat, Michael will gladly fill you in on whatever you want to know about Maui. The cost: $150 US per night per room if you stay two or more nights; a one night stay is $200. Not cheap but then this is Maui and you will pay multiples of this at many of the beach resorts.
For more information, check out Michael's web site - http://www.upcountrybandb.com - it gives an accurate picture of both property and proprietor and it has photos.
Our other Maui accommodations were:
Maui Seaside Hotel, Kahului: http://seasidehotelshawaii.com
$98 + $5 parking - standard hotel fairly close to the airport.
Makai Inn, just north of Lahaina: http://www.makaiinn.net
$120 - pleasant self-catering units on the water.
Hale Hookipa Inn, Makawao: http://www.maui-bed-and-breakfast.com/
$135 - comfortable B&B in an older house with lovely gardens; very healthy breakfasts.
Helen E. Parson
Baden, ON
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